2006 Elizabeth Hunter Valley Semillon

James Halliday always mentions Elizabeth Hunter Valley Semillon in this annual best 100 whites under $20. The 2006 was available at the Station Hotel. Bright ripe-lemon gold in colour, on the palate, as usual for Semillon, it's stern if not severe: it has gravitas. You really wouldn't, if you were bright, select it to drink alone on a summer's day at a pub or wine bar. It's probably best with food, but what? A rich, buttery roasted chicken? A Middle-Eastern dish with preserved lemon. A dessert of some kind: partially sweet, something with butter again. As I have said before, it's a drink for adults; it's not a YA grape. But while I understand the 2006's gravitas, I can't see myself buying it again—unless I know I'm having that chicken.