2015 Shobbrook Barossa Sammion

I would so love to think ‘natural’ wine is just fine. I understand, and love, wild ferment. What I don’t understand is unfining/unfiltering which makes the wine a cloudy yellow/on-occasion-orange. ‘If that bothers you,’ says the cheeky website of Shobbrook, apparently the home of natural wine in Australia, Tom Shobbrook being its ‘father’, ‘then you could always drink in the dark’. Just to be equally pernickety, the 2015 Shobbrook Barossa Sammion does not say what it is. I’ll take a wild guess, and say it’s Semillon. Fizzes it does, which is the first thing you can say. Its perfume makes you think of raw silk or maybe of the word crocus, maybe of the word lime. On the palate it could be a lime fizz, which does not say much about the grape-for-adults that is Semillon. But then maybe this is a winemaker who has made Semillon child-like. This would be a wine to have with fish or prawns, but not oysters, even though it is champagne-like. For Northern Riverites, it is favorably ‘made by hand from organic and biodynamically grown fruit’. Its label is grey, textured paper with running writing in a lighter grey: title only on the front of the bottle.