The 2015 Bisci Verdicchio Di Matelica (Not
Mettalica, but a commune of Italy!) is surprisingly golden in colour, when I
expected the pale lemon of Riesling which it resembles. Initially it has the
aroma of Miss Havisham's cordoned-off wedding room, then later of peanut oil. The
palate immediately says 'Adult'. Just like Semillon, this is not a grape for
children; it's too serious.
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