I've had a rare sighting of a
Soave, this time in our local bottle shop: the 2016 Campagnola Vigneti Monte
Foscarino Le Bine Soave Classico. Soave is a comune (equivalent to a township
or municipality) of the Veneto region, Verona province, northern Italy. In
Italy, permitted grape varieties in a particular place are specified under its Denominazione di Origine Controllata e
Garantita (DOCG: controlled designation of origin). So the name of the
place stands in for the name of the grape grown, primarily Garganega. Though
Soave itself is principally Garganega, it can also be combined with Trebbiano
di Soave (Verdicchio), Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco (Chenin Blanc) and Trebbiano
(Ungi Blanc) Toscano. So Soave, and not Garganega, will be prominently on the
imported bottles' front label.
Australia's appellation system for
wine-growing areas is its Geographical Indications(GIs), recognising super
zones, zones, regions and subregions. The zones and regions are mapped
geographical spaces where several varieties of grapes, both red and white, are
grown, depending, of course, on geographical and climatic conditions. In
Australia, we don't say 'McLaren Vale is a … wine', the way 'Soave' is said to
be a dry, white wine in The Oxford
companion to Wine. McLaren Vale is a wine region. While the place is most
often named on an Australian wine bottle's label, that place doesn't
necessarily stand for only a single grape variety. Nevertheless, there is a
burgeoning sense of links between place and variety, such as Riesling in the
Clare Valley.
The 2016 Campagnola Soave has
custard and pear in its perfume, but with something a little awkward like
over-ripe fruit. A beautiful, medium-to-deep gold in colour, on the palate
there is lovely pine which right at the end has an unusual touch of sweetness.
While not a sweet wine, the 2016 Campagnola would go well with dessert.
Certainly not fish. I was having whiting on the night, and planning to drink
the Soave, but desisted.
