2016 Campagnola Vigneti Monte Foscarino Le Bine Soave Classico

I've had a rare sighting of a Soave, this time in our local bottle shop: the 2016 Campagnola Vigneti Monte Foscarino Le Bine Soave Classico. Soave is a comune (equivalent to a township or municipality) of the Veneto region, Verona province, northern Italy. In Italy, permitted grape varieties in a particular place are specified under its Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG: controlled designation of origin). So the name of the place stands in for the name of the grape grown, primarily Garganega. Though Soave itself is principally Garganega, it can also be combined with Trebbiano di Soave (Verdicchio), Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco (Chenin Blanc) and Trebbiano (Ungi Blanc) Toscano. So Soave, and not Garganega, will be prominently on the imported bottles' front label.

Australia's appellation system for wine-growing areas is its Geographical Indications(GIs), recognising super zones, zones, regions and subregions. The zones and regions are mapped geographical spaces where several varieties of grapes, both red and white, are grown, depending, of course, on geographical and climatic conditions. In Australia, we don't say 'McLaren Vale is a … wine', the way 'Soave' is said to be a dry, white wine in The Oxford companion to Wine. McLaren Vale is a wine region. While the place is most often named on an Australian wine bottle's label, that place doesn't necessarily stand for only a single grape variety. Nevertheless, there is a burgeoning sense of links between place and variety, such as Riesling in the Clare Valley.

The 2016 Campagnola Soave has custard and pear in its perfume, but with something a little awkward like over-ripe fruit. A beautiful, medium-to-deep gold in colour, on the palate there is lovely pine which right at the end has an unusual touch of sweetness. While not a sweet wine, the 2016 Campagnola would go well with dessert. Certainly not fish. I was having whiting on the night, and planning to drink the Soave, but desisted.