All good Pinot Noirs are alike; each bad
Pinot is bad in the same way too. Of the things you can rely on in life, like
taxes and death (well, maybe not taxes if you are an immoral corporation),
another is that a good Pinot Noir will come from Gippsland, Victoria. Of
course, New Zealand and Tasmania, as well as the Yarra Valley, are sources of
good PNs. The 2016 Bellvale Pinot Noir has jam in its perfume with a light,
short, smooth palate of pepper and just a sense of sweetness, being a little
chocolate-ly, and you might hallucinate caramel. The 2016 Myrtle Point
Lightfoot & Sons Pinot Noir is a semi-opaque ruby red, with jam in its
perfume and a smooth palate.
My responses to regular drinking wine. I am a writer, and former teacher and researcher of food-and-wine writing at Southern Cross University, NSW, Australia.
Monday, August 27, 2018
2015 Bisci Verdicchio Di Matelica
The 2015 Bisci Verdicchio Di Matelica (Not
Mettalica, but a commune of Italy!) is surprisingly golden in colour, when I
expected the pale lemon of Riesling which it resembles. Initially it has the
aroma of Miss Havisham's cordoned-off wedding room, then later of peanut oil. The
palate immediately says 'Adult'. Just like Semillon, this is not a grape for
children; it's too serious.
2016 Mas Des Bressades Costières de Nîmes Cuvée Tradition Vin Blanc
It is still relatively rare to see Grenache
Blanc in an Australian bottle shop. But it is among the most delicious of
grapes. Usually it will come from the South of France, or Spain. The 2016 Mas
Des Bressades Costières de Nîmes Cuvée Tradition Vin Blanc is a combination of
Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier (a common combination). It has
a musk and vanilla perfume and vanilla on the most untroublesome, drinkdownable
palate.
Saturday, August 18, 2018
2017 Domaine de La Grenaudière Muscadet
The 2017 Domaine de La Grenaudière Muscadet comes in a distinct embossed narrow bottle—similar to a Riesling bottle of the long,
thin-neck type—with a baronial-reminiscent gold label. Muscadet is a summer-reminiscent
wine, and a pleasure to drink. Like drinking cake, but, really, not sweet. I've
only come across one other where I live: Domaine des Amoureux Muscadet.
Just as I have left my predictable pattern of sourdough and ciabatta, leave
your predictable grape for the less-predictable!
2016 Artea Alpes De Haute Provence Rosé
It is a truth universally acknowledged
that a Rosé from Sud de France, specifically Provence, must be good. And the Artea,
from Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault, makes for great drinking. The small sprig of
lavender on the label is another feature of Provence. The Rosé is salmon
ballet-pink or pale-bronze-almost-orange. The beautiful palate revels in its
own minimalism: think of a corridor of taste. But there's citrus on that palate
too.
2017 Petracavallo Fiano
The 2017 Petracavallo Fiano, a southern Italian grape, is made in Mottolo
south-east Italy, with organic or biodynamic grapes picked by hand, from
spontaneous fermentations (without added yeast or bacteria), with no filtering/clarification,
and minimal mechanical and chemical manipulation. I was shocked by the bright
gold colour, because Fiano is often a pale lemon. While it smelt of milky
fruit, it was overwhelmingly medicinal on the palate, and I had no sense of
recognising the grape. This particular natural wine wouldn't convince a newbie
drinker that Fiano is terrific. Its label is unusually plain for an Italian
wine, textually heavy, but still with a sense of its Italian origins, given the
lovely hand-signature of Vito the winemaker.
Squealing Pig New Zealand Pinot Noir Rosé
Squealing Pig New Zealand Pinot Noir Rosé
from Marlborough, is milky in perfume, pale
copper in colour, with a very dry palate, perhaps not luscious enough, but
would be good with salami pizza.
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