Not able to be resisted are these two Rosés: a 2014 Vinaceous
Salome WA Tempranillo Rosé made by Nick Stacey, and an equally terrific Spanish
one, a 2013 Estio La Purisima Rosado made from Monastrell, Syrah and Merlot.
Both of them very, very moreish. While the Vinaceous has a baroque label that
includes a cabaret-side-show-alley look and a belly dancer, the Estio features
gold stripes on its top, bottle neck and a spiral mosque dome on the label.
My responses to regular drinking wine. I am a writer, and former teacher and researcher of food-and-wine writing at Southern Cross University, NSW, Australia.
Saturday, November 21, 2015
2013 Jules Taylor Marlborough Sav Blanc, 2013 Hunter's (Jane Hunter) Marlborough Chardonnay
This is really the best of NZ Sav Blancs. Elegant, not overdone,
restrained. And the second is a 2013 Hunter's (Jane Hunter) Marlborough
Chardonnay, with all the characteristics of a traditional Chardonnay that you'd
want. Both, surprisingly, have very similar labels of ecu background and black
print.
2011 Rosemount Riesling
Golden in colour, it has over-ripe pine
in the perfume, with a little tartness that is also a little medicinal on a
palate which has a lemon fizz/sherbet in the middle-to-end. It has a Barossa
Valley address on the label. Under $15.
2013 Voyager Estate Margaret River Chenin Blanc
Chenin Blanc is the workhorse grape of volume wine production. But I
really love it when produced well, in its dry form, so I'm glad to see that
Voyager says it is 'close to [their] heart'. So pleasant do I find its drinking
that it made my day when I saw it for the first time locally, at the Bangalow
Cellars, Bangalow, NSW, Australia.
2012 Bordeaux Chateau De Cours and 2014 Cumulus Estate New South Wales Central Ranges Luna Rosa Rosado
Rosado is a lighter style made in a Portuguese tradition by a woman, Debbie Lauritz.
But though the bottle features a pretty frilled-edge and colour-embossed label,
the wine was too sweet – not all that sweet, for the web site says 'savoury
style … with a touch of sweetness', just too sweet for me. The winery's site
also recommends savoury food, but I would suggest dessert. By contrast, the
Merlot-Cabernet Franc Chateau De Sours was too dry! And though that lovely
salmon pink in colour, I expect with Rosé to have a sense of lusciousness and
thence high drinkability, and not 'a long
dry finish'. Just over and just unders $20.
2013 Viña Sol Catalunya White Wine
I am developing great respect for
the Familia Torres Spanish wine makers. Their Cariñena Rosé is a scintillating,
pretty much a to-die-for Rosé. Equally, their 2013 Viña Sol Catalunya White Wine
is made from Parellada and Garnacha Blanca grapes. Light-to-mid gold in colour,
its lovely perfume has notes of sweet, ripe citrus and warm cake, with a creamy
pineapple and apple on the palate. Very, very drinkable. Available from the
discerning Clunes Cellars/Wine Store whom I will ask to source more wine,
probably from Torres, of these fragrant and delicious grapes. Just under $20. What I wouldn't do for a Garnacha Blana wine!
2010 Mt Benson Limestone Coast Wangolina Station Section 67 Semillon
If you want a Semillon that you can drink with pleasure, and
yet never fear slipping out of adulthood back to childlikeness, the 2010 Mt
Benson Limestone Coast Wangolina Station Section 67 Semillon is it. Mount
Benson is a relatively new wine region situated between 'the coastal towns of
Robe and Kingston in South Australia. This is sensuous and near-luscious Semillon.
It smells of ripe pine, sweet soap and blossom. A clear, light gold in colour, in
the mouth there's interest and length with corn, tang and fizz. A Semillon for
adults who are uncomfortable being adults but don't want to admit it. The label
combines a copper dot of W with classic, hand-writing and typewriter fonts;
that sounds overwhelming, but works in black on white, creating interest, just
the way the wine does.
2013 Rey del Mund Rias Baixas Albarino
We see lots of imports into Australia of Spanish wine. The 2013
Rey del Mund Rias Baixas Albarino is a startling gold in colour, the likes of
which I haven't seen since viewing an old Chardi. You'd want that colour in a
wedding ring, if you wanted a wedding ring at all. It has a dreamy, sweet
pineapple perfume with an edge of looking-glass excitement, some sherbet in
there too, and overall smelling like the sound of gold taffeta or silk swishing.
On the palate it's crisp and fresh. You might have fish and chips happily with
it. The label has black and gold baroque floral flourishes, but with a wild-west feel to the font style.
2014 McLaren Vale Hunt Chardonnay
I discovered a great Chardonnay recently for a very cheap
price – but with limited availability under strange circumstances: the
remainders of a 2014 McLaren Vale (South Australia) Chardonnay from Dowie
Doole, exported by Tilley's Wines to the USA. It's a shame, because all of its
features are attractive: in colour, a classic gold, but with the slightest of
slightest pink tinges; the smell and palate intriguing, with fairy-floss,
pine-lemon-lime in the former redolent of a sweet heaven, and a
fantastical/whimsical edge on the latter of a high lemon-snow cliff-face, or
peach. As a wine, it's carnivalesque sideshow alley without the agro. Tilley
says they are recognised as a leading importer of characterful wines from small,
family-run vineyards in McLaren Vale, Adelaide Hills and Clare Valley. The
label features the lovely leaping movement of a horse through the typeface of
Hunt.
2010 Hunter Valley Brokenwood Mistress Block Vineyard Shiraz
The 2010 Hunter Valley Brokenwood Mistress Block Vineyard
Shiraz's 'heaviness' as a bottle is in sync with its 'weightiness' as a
shiraz. I am always on the lookout for 'smooth'. And although this has no aroma
to speak of (Unless it is hay! And I love the smell of hay.), all is forgiven.
But perhaps, on a revisit, there is a forceful fluttering of vanilla in aroma
and on the palate. A faultless ruby colour with a slip-down palate. I can tell
you: a red that you don't think about (in winter) as it falls effortlessly down
the throat. My god: the definition of a gift. One could die and think: ok, all
is good.
2013 Mad Fish Western Australia Pinot Noir
My most recent wine discovery is a very drinkable pinot noir
at around $16. It's difficult to get a good pinot noir cheaply – but here it
is: 2013 Mad Fish Western Australia Pinot Noir. Trust me, if you can, it's a
drinkable pinot, and (relatively) cheap. The grapes are produced by Burch
Family Wines from the cool climate Great Southern region of WA (pinot noir is
traditionally produced in the cold), which equals the 'Porongurup ranges ... a
small sub-region of cool climate elevated vineyards. The winters … are bitterly
cold and the soils are extremely ancient … producing low yielding vines'. The
colour is that clear red you'd recognise as pinot, with cherry and nuts in the
perfume and honey and jam on the palate.
2014 La Vuelta Argentia Malbec Rosé
More black strokes on a white label can be found in the 2014
La Vuelta Malbec Rosé, the latest discovery in my competitive quest with my
youngest to find great rosés. This Argentinian wine has a strand of vine curled
on its label, is a pinkish blood-red, smells of cherry ripe, and slips down the
throat like an effortless downhill run.
Vanasour New Zealand Pinot Gris
Pinot Gris is becoming so common that it no longer has a
Palov's-dog effect of surprise. But Vanasour NZ Pinot Gris still makes you take
notice. Clear and light in colour, with a very fine pink tinge. A strong
coconut, guava perfume. Smooth and drinkable: initially lightly sweet, and, so,
luscious, but dry going down the throat. It's so lovely that it's coming in
second to my fave: Tar and Roses Pinot Grigio.
2014 One Road Adelaide Hills Chardonnay
A great growing place for Chardy is the Adelaide
Hills. Eden Valley is near those hills, and anything from Padthaway we can take
as great. Because of this provenance, the proprietary labelled 2014 One Road
Chardonnay is very quaffable. A mid-gold in colour, it has an interestingly nutty
perfume and long, textured palate which features savoury watermelon and light
lemon. The label says Padthaway provides the stone-fruit flavour and Eden
valley the citrus.
2014 Deep Woods Western Australia Chardonnay
I
have talked about WA's very, very drinkable Deep Woods Rosé. For some wineries,
all their work is good; for some, all not so good for me. And some are mixed.
But Deep Woods is turning out to be an all-gooder, since their 2014 Chardonnay
is also a very good-drinking, traditional Chardy. What I am trying to say is
that with this you can't go wrong if you like a wooded Chardy.
2013 NZ Pencarrow Pinot Noir
I've just discovered a 2013 NZ Pencarrow Pinot Noir. I can claim
neither explorer nor conquistador status for this discovery. I was at a tasting
counter when a woman came approached, looked over the tasting bottles and chose
discerningly what to try. She had the Pencarrow in hand – noticeable because of
its vertical, centred label in grey. She said she had served it in n a
restaurant on a regular basis. I knew I was on to a good thing – the affordance
of anonymity, strangers and chance!
2015 Rogers & Rufus Rosè
I've found a Rogers & Rufus in a Northern Rivers
bottle-shop: their 2015 Rosè. Rosè is all Rogers and Rufus make, and so far
they haven't made a dud, and that includes the 2015. Although as I write this,
I find I have only ever written up the 2011. The R&R Rosè had its first
vintage in 2009, and I feel like I must have had the other, in-between
vintages, familiar as I am with this wine. The 2015's most striking aspect is
its very, very pale salmon-pink colour. And of course their good-looking
bottle, with its (relatively) distinct cloth strip wrapped around the bottle's neck.
As I said of the 2011, this has got to be one of the great Rosès. Only in press
for one-four hours with fermentation from naturally
occurring yeast, it, indeed has, as the website says, strawberries and cream and blood orange in a dry and
textured wine. In the case of R&R, a Rosè is a Rosè is a Rosè.
2014 Toi Toi Marlbourough Hidden Treasure Pink Sauvignon
A recent oddity is a pink Sav Blanc, the 2014 Toi Toi
Marlbourough Hidden Treasure Pink Sauvignon. A small amount of Pinot Noir wine
was added to create the hue. Its perfume is a fairy-floss, with a base of grass
as in a traditional Sav Blanc. Its colour is a traditional Rosé dark salmon
pink. On the palate – well it's confusing: savoury toast and wheat. But a lovely thing to drink.
2013 Glen Ewin Adelaide Hills Pinot Gris
On a trip to Adelaide we discovered a terrific –
distinctively open and fresh – pink-tinged, easily priced 2013 Glen Ewin,
Adelaide Hills, Pinot Gris. But I cannot find much info on it easily: it has
slipped away, again, like a ghost imagined.
2015 Tar and roses Pinot Grigio
I have
always sought out a pink Pinot Gris/Grigio since I tasted a Tasmanian one many
years ago – 2010 – in the then newly opened National Wine Centre of Australia,
Adelaide. It's like pursuing a dream, a spectre, a trace. One of my faves is
Tar and roses Pinot Grigio. But the 2015 has changed on the palate, while still
being a pale bronze, salmon rose, apricot pink, orange hinted extraordinary colour.
The colour puce might smell like this wine: honey/mead and marshmallow. The
honey/mead is repeated on the palate. It's drier than former years and my
sister always thought it a little sweet. But it has become acidic, with some
tannin, like an unripe tangerine or salted butterscotch/caramel. (Perhaps the
winemakers, Don Lewis and Narelle King, are trying to match the wine with this
latest craze = salted everything-formerly-sweet.)
2013 Hunky Dory Marlborough Pinot Gris
The 2013 Hunky Dory, a brand I hadn't seen before, Marlborough
Pinot Gris, Gerwertztraminer and Riesling – is suitably sub-labelled The Tangle –
and made by the Allan family. The idea of tangle is picked up in the motif of
the label: a silhouette of a sleeping fisherperson, in a boat on a blue sea
background. The wine had a lovely taste in the mouth: a sweetness, savoury and
musk – a savoury musk stick. The palate followed in a similar fashion to the
perfume of this 'light-white' coloured wine.
2014 Burns and Fuller Adelaide Hills Chardonnay
I am obsessed with trying Chardonnay from the Adelaide Hills because of one bottle I once had of Ashton Hills Chardonnay during the time of my father's decline. But a good one is elusive. While the 2014 Burns and Fuller Adelaide Hills Chardonnay has an ungainly, large black font featuring on the label with the Fuller the curve of the underlip of a half-smile, it is nevertheless is mid-gold in colour, with traditional apricot, and honey and coconut, in the perfume. It's a classic buttery Chardy, but it's a slated butter on the palate
2014 Rocca di Montemassi Calasole Vermentino
The 2014 Rocca di Montemassi Calasole
Vermentino is low-key for a Verms. Some might think it smells of something unmentionable. But one
could also think of coconut and nuts. A very, very light Verm in the mouth – so
much so that one could mistake it for Riesling. The label is in a soft
baby-blue, but otherwise unremarkable except for the cap the top of which
repeats the blue with a white castle silhouette. This is a very underplayed
Vermentino with no hint of depth or lusciousness.
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